Although most tourists visiting Namdapha go only to the town of Miao and the buffer zone of the national park, there are scores of interesting places and sites both within and outside the park, each offering something special to the discerning tourist. The Namdapha River, which flows southwest to join the Dihing River at Firmbase, divides the park into the buffer (tourism) zone and the core zone. The buffer zone (to the west of the Namdapha River) is low in elevation, relatively easy to access, and one can camp at several sites in this area. The core zone (to the east of the Namdapha beyond Firmbase) is more difficult to visit because of the relatively tougher terrain and lower number of paths and trails. Outside the park, Miao to the west has a few attractions, and to the east, there are several places in the community forests around the settlements of Gandhigram and Vijaynagar that are great for viewing wildlife.

Miao Reserve Forest (west of Namdapha National Park, near Miao town)

Abutting the town of Miao to the west of Namdapha National Park, Miao Reserve Forest (RF) is a relatively large tract of primary, and in some parts degraded secondary, evergreen rainforest. Although sighting large mammals is rare in the RF, it is a great area for bird watching, and several interesting lowland evergreen bird species are easily sighted. Wreathed and Rufous-necked Hornbills, as well as White-throated Brown Hornbills nest in the RF, and global specialties such as the Streaked Wren-babbler and Golden-crested Myna have been sighted here recently. There are several easy trails in the forest where one can also encounter several species of forest lizards. Administratively, Miao RF falls under the Jairampur Forest Division, and permission to visit the RF can be obtained from the Divisional Forest Officer, Jairampur Forest Division, Jairampur, Changlang district, Arunachal Pradesh.

A pair of Gold-crested Mynas at the Miao RF.

Miao Museum (Miao)

Maintained by the Namdapha park authorities, Miao Museum is situated near the Field Director’s Office. One room is devoted to animal specimens collected from Namdapha and surrounding areas over the course of several surveys and decades. There are many snake and frog specimens as well as a large number of bird skins, mammal pelts and skulls. Also of interest is a complete skeleton of a large python mounted on the wall. A second room displays the clothing, tools and village life of the local people. The museum is open on all working days.

Miao Mini Zoo (Miao)

Miao zoo is situated opposite the museum near the Field Director’s Office. Several primates found in Namdapha are housed in the zoo, including hoolock gibbons, Assamese macaques, stump-tailed macaque, pig-tailed macaque and slow loris. Small carnivores include Himalayan palm civet and other small mammals housed are porcupines and leopard cats. Among the other attractions are black bears and an enclosure with a gharial! The entry fee is Rs. 5 per head and Tuesday is a zoo holiday. Just outside the zoo is a large enclosure with sambar and barking deer.

Moti Jheel (buffer zone, Namdapha National Park)

A two to four hour walk from the forest department campsite of 10th Mile, Moti Jheel is a small natural pool (or jheel­) situated atop a plateau called Gibbon’s Land. The path to Moti Jheel is steep, but runs through beautiful deciduous and semi-evergreen forests, with moss-laden branches and trees covered in epiphytes. The path is a superb bird watching trail, where one can find specialties like the Green Cochoa and Rufous-throated Fulvetta. Gibbons, capped langur, Malayan giant squirrels and smaller squirrels can usually be sighted. During the rains, it is not uncommon to come across a mountain lizard (Japalura) or keeled box turtle. The pool itself is small, and often overgrown with vegetation (but one can find frogs here), and not as spectacular as the walk to it.

Deban (Mihi-phi-phi) (buffer zone, Namdapha National Park)

Deban is the headquarters of the forest department in Namdapha, and the only site in the park with permanent accommodation for visitors and tourists. Situated amidst evergreen forest on the north bank of the Dihing River, Deban is good for birding and sighting primates like gibbons and capped langur. Flying squirrels call throughout the night, and are easily sighted at dawn and dusk from close range. Just above Deban, on the M-V road, it is sometimes possible, with a good torch, to sight slow loris in the canopy after dark. Barking deer are common, and of late there have even been sightings of serow around Deban. The Dihing at Deban is also an excellent place for viewing White-bellied Heron and Ibisbill. About three km before Deban is Anamika falls, a small waterfall on the M-V road, where several species of frogs occur. During the rains, the areas around Deban teems with herpetofauna of every description, including species like Rhabdops bicolor, a stream-dwelling snake that can be found in the ditches near the rest house. Deban is extremely windy during the day, which is why the Lisu call it Mihi-phi-phi, or ‘place where wind blows all the time’.

The Forest Rest House, Deban.

Haldibari (buffer zone, Namdapha National Park)

Formerly a permanent forest department patrolling camp, Haldibari is about three km (an hour’s walk) from Deban on the north bank of the Dihing. Haldibari is one of the forest department designated campsite for visitors, and is situated in a clearing in the forest; however the water source for the camp is a very small stream. There are two other smaller trails that one can take from Haldibari to explore the forests here. A good place for bird watching, open forest species like minivets and orioles are easily observable here. The path to Haldibari from Deban passes through stands of dense, thick bamboo (Lisu name wachokha) in some places, where Snowy-throated Babblers and Pale-headed Woodpecker are often sighted. The path is also excellent for sighting White-cheeked Hill Partridge and Blue-naped Pitta, as well as several hornbill species, diurnal squirrels and primates.

Hornbill (buffer zone, Namdapha National Park)

About 6 km (a one-and-a-half to two hour walk) from Haldibari (and 9 km from Deban), Hornbill is situated in the midst of towering evergreen forest and one may occasionally be lucky enough to see a small carnivore like the yellow-throated marten crossing the path from Haldibari to Hornbill. As the name indicates, Hornbill is one of the few places in Namdapha where one can sight four hornbill species, including the range-restricted White-throated Brown Hornbill and the spectacular Great Hornbill. Apart from hornbills, this campsite is excellent for bird watching, and several rare and interesting evergreen forest species are common and easily observed. White-tailed Flycatchers are common in the understorey around Hornbill, as are Streaked Wren-babblers, Large Scimitar Babblers and Pied Falconets. There are several trails and paths around Hornbill, where it is not uncommon to come across gibbons and capped langurs, and the lucky might sight a troop of stump-tailed macaques in the undergrowth. By night, flying squirrels, and several of the palm civets are a guaranteed sight on the trees around the campsite. Camping at Hornbill is one of the best ways to sight wildlife by both day and night, and access to fresh water is not at all a problem. Hornbill used to be functioning forest department patrolling camp with a pucca building with several rooms till 2001, but in recent years, there is no permanent staff and the building has collapsed. The remains of the structure existed till recently and today, only some fallen tin sheets and a clearing in the forest mark the campsite. The department for the past few years has been occasionally building makeshift camps here in the winter. Visitors/tourists bring their own tents to camp here now.

Bulbulia (Aji-polo) (buffer zone, Namdapha National Park)

Known to the Lisu as Aji-polo, or the ‘place of bubbling water’, Bulbulia is the site of a sulphur-methane spring. Located about 2 km (an hour’s walk) from Hornbill, the path to Bulbulia is an offshoot of the path running from Hornbill to Firmbase. The path passes through tall evergreen forests and bamboo stands, and is a bird watcher’s dream. Grey Peacock Pheasants are heard throughout the day, and large mixed-species bird flocks are common. Bulbulia itself has a decrepit watch-tower overlooking the sulphur spring where one might camp, although this is not recommended due to the possibility of disturbing animals visiting the spring as well as because of the strong smell from the sulphur and methane. Capped langurs, Rufous-necked Hornbills and Wreathed Hornbills are often sighted on the path from Hornbill to Bulbulia.

The sulphur-methane springs at Bulbulia

Rani Jheel (Oopa-yubi) (buffer zone, Namdapha National Park)

Rani Jheel (Lisu name Oopa-yubi, or ‘frog pool’) is a four to five hour walk from Hornbill (on the way to Firmbase). It is possible to camp overnight here in a small clearing away from the pool. The White-winged Wood Duck can occasionally be sighted at this forest pool. Fresh water is accessible by a short, five-minute steep climb to a stream below the campsite. Another attraction at Rani Jheel is the Beautiful Nuthatches that forage in the mornings on the tall trees near the campsite. The evergreen forests around the lake are excellent for bird watching, and bamboo habitats are about a forty-minute leisurely walk from the campsite on the path towards Firmbase. Rani Jheel is also a good place to sight gibbons. One may also be lucky enough to sight the crab-eating mongoose at the jheel. It is also a good place to search for frogs. The path from Rani Jheel to Firmbase descends from the plateau to the riverbed through extensive bamboo, the best place in Namdapha to sight Snowy-throated Babbler, several scimitar babbler species, as well as the rare and enigmatic Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbill and White-hooded Babbler. The vicinity of Bor nala, a small stream on the path between Hornbill and Rani Jheel is a good spot to search for Hodgson’s Frogmouth.

A view of Rani Jheel

Raja Jheel (buffer zone, Namdapha National Park)

Raja Jheel can be reached by a path branching off from the main path between Hornbill and Firmbase just before Rani Jheel. The jheel is about an hour’s walk from Rani Jheel. Raja Jheel is a forest swamp that is now completely overgrown with vegetation, but the main attraction is the habitats and bird life en route to the swamp. The path to Raja Jheel continues to the mountains beyond the swamp, and can be steep and difficult further on. One can camp on the way to Raja Jheel at a small stream in a valley, which is about a twenty-minute walk from Rani Jheel. By night, it is relatively easy to sight flying squirrels in this area with the help of a powerful torch.

Firmbase (buffer zone, Namdapha National Park)

Firmbase is the site of a former army camp on the banks of the Dihing River. The area is the confluence of the Namdapha and Dihing rivers, as well as the place where the Firmbase nala, flowing down from the Dapha Bum ridge, joins the Dihing. Camping at Firmbase is on the sands at the river bank. There are extensive grasslands at Firmbase, where one might possibly startle a sambar, or come across soaring black storks or foraging White-bellied Herons. Wild dogs are often sighted. Tracks of small cats, bears and even tiger can be found here. The path to Firmbase from Rani Jheel (about two hours) is a steep downhill run and has bamboo and secondary forest, and is great for bird watching. One is usually sure to see the Snowy-throated Babbler on this stretch.

A view of Firmbase from the air

65 Mile, M-V Road, and Lake (core zone, Namdapha National Park)

At the 65th mile on the 100-mile Miao-Vijaynagar Road is a campsite on the south bank of the Dihing River. There are several trails leading from this site into the evergreen forests beyond which are excellent for bird watching. A trail leading from 65 mile goes almost due south to the international border between India and Myanmar. A few hundred metres short of the border is a large lake, set amidst temperate forest with bamboo undergrowth, at an altitude of 1700 m. The trail to the lake from 65 mile goes over undulating hills and ridges. Although the ascent is not steep, dense bamboo and cane makes progress difficult in a few places. The path ascends to about 1900 m (where there are, surprisingly, a few rhododendron trees!) from 65 mile, and then descends to the lake. Although the trek can be completed in a day, two days is a more reasonable time. The lake itself is an excellent place to find White-winged Wood Duck and several species of waterfowl, including Wood Snipe and Slaty-legged Crake. The thick spiny bamboo around the lake is also a good spot for many wren-babbler species. Visiting this lake is only possible with the help of an experienced Lisu guide.

The lake above 65 mile, M-V Road. Beyond the ridge in the background is Myanmar.

Mugaphi (community forests, east of Namdapha National Park) Mugaphi is a 3800 m peak situated in the community forests east of Namdapha, and lies north of the town of Vijaynagar. Visiting Mugaphi is possible only with the help and guidance of the Lisu, who are intimately familiar with the mountain trails and water sources. There are a few places where the Lisu camp on the mountain along the path to the summit (at 1200 m and 2100 m), and it is possible to do so at the summit itself in the hot season. During winters, the peak is often snowbound, and camping atop Mugaphi is dangerous due to the unpredictable weather. During winter, access to water is also often difficult, which makes a limited number of sites (where water is available) suitable for camping. The walk to the summit of Mugaphi takes two to three days from Vijaynagar, although the Lisu often do the trek in a single day. There is also a path to the summit from Gandhigram, although this is substantially longer and less frequently used. The trail from Vijaynagar to the top of Mugaphi passes through a wide variety of habitats, ranging from tropical evergreen forest at the base to temperate broadleaved forest, montane bamboo and rhododendron, and alpine meadows at the very top. A potential campsite at 2100 m is set in temperate forest with bamboo undergrowth and is phenomenal for birding. Rare species like the Blyth’s Tragopan, Ward’s Trogon, Blue-fronted Robin and Golden-breasted Fulvetta are common, and understorey rarities like Long-billed and Wedge-billed Wren-babblers are often found. Higher up, rhododendron forest and alpine meadows are home to Fire-tailed Myzornis and Sclater’s Monal, among other species. The high elevations are also habitats for takin and musk deer. From the top of Mugaphi, which is on the border between India and Myanmar, one can see the north Myanmar town of Putao, and the snow-bound mountains of South China.

Mugaphi, showing montane bamboo and alpine habitats.

Gandhigram (Shidi) (east of Namdapha National Park)

Called Shidi (flat land or plain area) by the Lisu, Gandhigram is the largest settlement on the south bank of the Dihing to the east of Namdapha National Park. Earlier, the Lisu practiced shifting cultivation and were settled in scattered hamlets in the vicinity. The Assam Rifles came into the area in 1961 and made the Lisu from several hamlets settle in the valley and named the village Gandhigram. Till 2004, the Assam Rifles had a permanent camp here. Today, Gandhigram has over 300 households, and is a neat and well-planned village, with the traditional chang-houses built in rows along several parallel streets. Two to three small streams criss-cross the village and paddy fields. There are extensive paddies to the west of the village by the banks of the Dihing River, and the surrounding hills have bamboo and secondary forest from where the Lisu obtain their fuelwood, timber and other non-timber forest products for household needs. The Lisu grow pineapples, oranges, persimmon, guava, sugarcane and a variety of vegetables in their home gardens and surrounding forests. The Lisu keep pigs, chicken and ducks. There is a large church, with a bust of Mahatma Gandhi on its grounds, and the bazaar area in thelowerpart of the village, which sells essential items (although at twice the normal cost!). There is an old watermill which was used extensively earlier for grinding their paddy harvest. About a half-hour walk from Gandhigram is the village of Shidiku, also called ‘Corner-basti or Konabasti’ because it is in a corner of Gandhigram! There is a Public Works Department (PWD) Inspection Bungalow (IB) with two rooms in Gandhigram. Although old and run-down, it is clean and well-maintained, and used to be looked after by a friendly and knowledgeable Lisu caretaker, who recently retired in 2008. Although most Lisu are unfamiliar with tourists because few outsiders visit their area, the hospitality shown to the occasional visitor (mostly wildlife biologists in recent years) is truly wonderful. A visitor to a Lisu household will usually be offered the obligatory cup of lacha-kha (over-boiled bitter tea) which is an acquired taste, varied kinds of rice ‘rotis’ or zakhulo, popcorn or roasted kochu (Colocasia) and the deliciously juicy pineapples in winter. The smoked and salted pork that the Lisu prepare in winter is a must-have delicacy.

The paddies and secondary and bamboo habitats on the hills just outside Gandhigram are remarkably rich with interesting bird species. Bewick’s Swans and a juvenile Black-necked Crane have been sighted here recently, and there are a few swampy areas where the Black-tailed Crake is a certainty. The bamboo habitats resound with the wheezy calls of Mountain Bamboo Partridges at dawn and dusk, and harriers and buzzards quarter the air over the paddies in which Rosy Pipits and Northern Lapwings forage. In winter, large flock of Wreathed Hornbills can be seen flying over the village.

Vijaynagar (east of Namdapha National Park)

The town of Vijaynagar is the administrative headquarters of the Vijaynagar Circle, and is a four to five hour walk (18 km) from Gandhigram. The township was set up in the 1960s. The Assam Rifles is stationed here and the Indian Air Force maintains a small base in the town with an advanced landing ground, or ALG, where airplane sorties carrying supplies for both the Assam Rifles and the civilian administration and local people take off and land. The sorties are operated from Mohanbari in Assam. This is supported by the Arunachal government as there is no road connectivity to the area. There are two passenger sorties in a month for civilians, but these are unpredictable and dependent on weather. Sorties are also called in times of emergency. The town itself is set on a large grassy plateau. Vijaynagar township is now populated by government officials (mostly non-tribal), Nepalis and the Lisu. Within the township area, the actual old Lisu village is known as Dawodi. Vijaynagar has a satellite phone (which can be used by the public in the mornings and evenings), a health centre, a secondary school and a market area where essential supplies can be purchased. Several government offices and departments are located here, including that of the Circle Officer, a post office and a police station. There is also a small Inspection Bungalow (IB) maintained by the Public Works Department (PWD). Vijaynagar is a good base to explore the surrounding community forests. Mugaphi, a 3800 m tall peak is a day or two from the town, and the forests are criss-crossed by many trails leading into the surrounding hills. Anga-chhoo, a takin salt lick is a half-day’s walk from Vijaynagar. To the north, east and south, Myanmar is only a few hours walk away.

On the way to Vijaynagar, is the smaller Lisu village of Hazulu (about 10 km from Gandhigram), a settlement with households situated at the foot of and atop a small hill. One also passes several Nepali villages such as Ramnagar, Phaparbari and Daragaon.